Tuesday, September 29, 2009


We navigated from Illhausern via I-phone into the Old City of Lyon. We had directions to push a keypad like you would enter into a secure area. In reality is was a large stainless steel plunger two feet in diameter, you entered the correct code and it went down. It was a little strange. We then went down some very narrow streets that got narrower. We found our Hotel in the Old City, it was styled with a theme of silk. It may have had twelve rooms but there were only a couple occupied the days we were there. My first time taking a short nap listening to children play in a nearby park mixed with accordion music wafting in through an open window.
We met for dinner downstairs and made a short walk across the Saone River Bridge to a quaint little Brasserie and dined outside along the street. We started with an aperitif and about that time a couple sat down next to us, as we were seated at a long table. I began a conversation with this couple from Yorkshire, England. They had taken the train thru the chunnel all the way to Lyon. We talked about politics, family, and life in our respective countries. It was a great travel experience for all of us, at least for us. The food was wonderful and wine even better. A short walk home and a good nights sleep.
We has a continental breakfast in the hotel and took a tour around Lyon in a double decker bus. We stopped at the Basilica on top of the hill overlooking Lyon and toured the church. We also stopped at a museum De Beau Artis and toured the collection of old Gothic and some impressionists paintings. Dad was depressed by the dark, dense, overwhelming ugliness of most of the works. We ate lunch in an open are square next to the museum. Mom ordered Pizza, the first and last time on the trip. It was sort of a food court. The beer and wine were good but the food was forgettable. We took a river boat cruise visiting the intricate locks along the Saone and Rhone rivers. Next a nap to get ready for dinner. The joyous noise of children playing rocked us to sleep.
Dinner was at a Paul Bocuse El Nord. I enjoyed house-made sausage cooked in brioches that were moist and full of flavour. It was followed by pork loin with macaroni and cheese that was delightful. We enjoyed a local red and a white wine. Service was excellent and we got pictures with the manager. The walk home from dinner along the Somme River helped walk off some calories. All dishes were great tasting and a good value. We will sleep and begin in the morning.

I was given a kitchen tour by the Chef Marc Haeberlin and Charles would be jealous. It was amazing silver everywhere. All the best equipment and newest everything. He signed a menu for me which is cool because mom presented the owner with a copy of the menu to the owner from the first time she had dined there - twenty years ago. This was a Michelin three star and it was a great dinner with family and added friends from Germany.

The next day we drove 12o kilometers per hour to Lyon, France to have pork cheeks... it was wonderful. We met a nice couple from England and solved all the worlds problems. We had a Continental breakfast this morning at a cool hotel in the old city: La Tour Rose. We took a bus tour of the city and had lunch on a large square with Roman fountains running water and the sound of children's laughter. We went to the museum and saw a bunch of depressing early Christian art and then enjoyed a wonderful collection of impressionist art. Amazing. To night we will go to the Gastronomic restaurant of Paul Bocuse. I have my black cowboy hat and I have not met a cross person. I smile before I attempt to butcher their language they smile and speak very good English. Until later.

C'est la vie...



So we began our meal at L' Auberge I'll, in Illhaeusern on the terrace where we interpreted the menu amid much hilarity and placed the order. While watching fishermen in boats with long poles catch perch we enjoyed an amuse bouche of cornflour crusted perch pan fried with tartar sauce fried Parmesan cheese. We moved to an open dining room overlooking the I'll river and a wonderfully groomed lawn. Next was a fried quail egg dusted with Parmesan and something on a dollop of Bearnaise with love. Next was a fish soup. Then foie gras frog leg Terrine. Caviar on top with fresh green onion. Palette cleansing. We started with An Alsace Riesling and moved to Burgandy for the entree. Dad handed me the wine list; I gave it back after reviewing 1,000 selections. I finished the meal with venison with red wine reduction. I chose to drink my desert. I passed on foie gras only because I am pacing myself.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

This has been an amazing weekend. We enjoyed, savored, thanked the heavens for an amazing seven-course meal at Oberge de Ill - the finest meal since leaving Charles (Chef Charles Youts of The Classic Cafe). We toured the Alsaice wine region and then drove like crazy to Lyonnaise at 150 klm and had a wonderful meal of pork cheeks with red wine sauce. I will post again tomorrow (maybe before) with details and pictures. Thanks, Chris.

If you are hungry for delicious food after reading this, go to Roanake and tell chef Charles what you are hungry for! Some delicious specials and margaritas made it to last week's menu: this coming week will be icing on that cake!
For the first time since we arrived, I slept all night. It might have been the Alsace Pinot Gris or the Pinot Noir, or after dinner drinks by the lock. We ate at the Tanners -- the same place American astronaut Buz Aldren also ate twenty five years ago: Dad was happy about that. Chocuroute again, a pritian overdose with sauerkraut. I was going to eat light ordering snails and guinea fowl, however, I did not see the fowl was stuffed with foi gras. What a shame to miss that! Better than wonderful. We drove to Germany in a rental car. We just skirted the Black Forest on the way to Baden Baden, a resort city that has a green belt in the city center that we walked and had a light lunch. Then we got lost in the Black Forest: but the GPS on the iphone worked. Found a small village where trolls, gnomes and snot gurgles live, had coffee and made it back to Strasbourg alive. We will be off to Illhouseb after doing the Alcase wineries today. Tough work but someone must do it; Having a blast, thanks little brother and everyone.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Today was a day of exploring Strasbourg. I began my day with capicola ham, black forest ham, sausages and French bread. No doubt - it was my kind of start. Then a short walk to the cathedral and photos of the outside of an amazing human endeavor. The cathedral is really awe-inspiring.

My lunch was roquefort cheese, brie and camembert with field greens and a mustard vinaigrette. Alonbg the way, I did figure out that sparkling wine from Alcase is wonderful. After lunch we toured the inside of the church. It is beautiful. We took a tram tour, then a river boat cruise, and then we napped until dinner.

Yvonne in the Petite France section is comfortable, friendly and extraordinary. Chef Dominique Radacher began with a foie gras creme brule that was world-class! Other memorable starters were escargot and smoked salmon. Dad had a salad with scallops, quail confit, mushrooms, some lettuce and five other proteins that he would not let me taste. We enjoyed local red and white Pinot noir wine with dinner. The favorite entree was a toss-up: it was all so delicious that I couldn't decide. I enjoyed a pork knuckle. No. I LOVED the pork knuckle. It was presented by itself with its sauce. I like this chef and the way he thinks. I can only describe the dish as pork osso bucco that is fired off at service. The sauce was a pork demi glase with love. I can't remember what everyone else had, but it definitely was a religious experience for all. The chef came to the table for a visit and we talked about our love for a while! The people have been a hoot. I have enjoyed everyone, every day. We travel to the Black Forest in the morning.

Thursday, September 24, 2009



The last time I flew American Airlines it was Air GRUMPY. This time, our trip was perfect: the flight attendants were all nice and professional. We arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris on time and we were happy campers. We made a short walk to the train station and found our place to wait for the train. It is a beautiful station with everything one needs. I grabbed a salami, butter and French bread sandwich at the station for fear that the train might not have a dining car. In fact, it did have a sandich shop with wine and beer.

Very beautiful ride through the Champagne region to Rheims where we began to see workers picking grapes in the fields. We arrived in Strasbourg on time and made it to the beautiful Regent Petite France Hotel. Petite France is the old part of the City. It is surrounded by canals surrounded by restaurants; ah, I am in heaven. Our first adult beverage was enjoyed overlooking a lock at our hotel. The girls had a local champagne and I had a Riesling. I know Curtis is laughing now because I never drink Riesling - but when in Rome ... It was a crisp, dry, full- flavored wine. Dad had a local beer and smiled alot.

Our first meal was Christmas in October (our family tradition on Christmas Eve is German sausages and hot potato salad). For this event, we enjoyed open-air dining on the canals at the Burestuber.

The first course winner was a goat cheese foam with pine nuts and sun dried tomatoes - served in a stemless Riedel glass. I also ate salmon tartar, which tasted much like salmon cerveche: the lemon juice overpowered the salmon.

The dinner winner was Charcute. Charles would be thrilled. Fresh, wonderful sauerkraut with lard and lingonberries covered with Pork, wienerschnitzle, half-inch slices of pork belly, lovingly surrounded by bratwursts with a boiled liver dumpling. We washed it down with a local Riesling that I think is equivalent to a grand cru in bordeaux.

Walking the cobblestones along the industrial canals is calming. At every green patch, park, and corner, people are laying on the grass in each others' arms. Young, old, big and small - people are in love. The outward expression of emotion is contagious. I will be hunting for a greeen spot tomorrow...

We will take a river cruise and tour the Cathedral in the morning. And then dinner: German I would bet. Thanks and hello to all....